How to Prepare for Your Visit to Uist

I visited Uist for the first time in August 2024, staying with my third cousin Catriona MacKinnon on Eriskay. It was an unforgettable experience, but there are definitely a few things I wish I’d known about travelling to the Outer Hebrides before I started planning my trip.

I wrote this quick guide to better inform you of how to plan your own journey to Uist: when to go, what to wear, where to stay, how to get there, and how to get around. I hope you find it helpful.

By Matthew Rettino

When to Go to Uist

The busy tourist season for Uist stretches from March to October. It quiets down the rest of the year. Be sure to book a hotel early in the season to ensure you have a place to stay.

For nature lovers, the machair is in bloom between mid-June and mid-August, a good time to see the beauty of Uist’s low-lying, coastal wildflowers.

Eriskay Machair

What to Wear on Uist

South Uist tends to be cooler than Glasgow and Edinburgh in the summer—around 15-20°C. It is also very windy, and as the saying goes, you can experience all four seasons in a day.

During the winter, the temperature is warmer than in central Canada—it can vary roughly from 5°C to 15°C, like a cool autumn.

Dress warmly and bring a jacket. One you can easily remove when it stops raining or becomes warmer during the day is recommended. Also, bring sufficient rain gear, especially if you plan to do outdoor activities. Wellington boots and waterproof trousers are a good idea for hikers and bikers. However, I managed to make do in less boggy areas with waterproof hiking shoes instead of boots. Bring extra socks.

Where to Stay in Uist

It is crucial to reserve lodging in advance, especially during the summer months. The island is increasingly popular with tourists, and family members living on the mainland also visit the island.

Options for places to sleep range from iconic landmarks like the Lochboisdale Hotel to bed and breakfasts and self-catering cottages. There are several hostels, campgrounds, glamping pods, and even a small bothy (Uisinis) open during deer stalking season.

I stayed with my third cousin during my visit, so knowing someone on the island who can accommodate you during your visit is a plus!

The following hotels are recommended and of particular interest:

The Lochboisdale Hotel, Lochboisdale, South Uist: A historic and iconic hotel by the famous pier.

Lochboisdale Hotel

The Polochar Inn, Pollachara, near West Kilbride: a good inn at the southern tip of the island. There is an ancient standing stone in the parking lot.

Polochar Inn

The Orasay Inn, Lochcarnan, South Uist: the Orasay Inn is owned by Isobel and Allan Graham who have a Macaulay family connection: Isobel (née Macaulay) is the daughter of Donald Macaulay and Catherine Mary Macinnes.

Orasay Inn

Other recommended hotels include:

The Borodale Hotel in Daliburgh, South Uist
The Dark Island Hotel in Liniclate, Benbecula
Templeview Hotel in Carinish, North Uist
Langass Lodge, Langais, North Uist
Hamersay Hotel, Lochmaddy, North Uist

Other hotels and bed & breakfasts, and alternative accommodations, are also available.

How to Get to Uist

Taking the Plane

The easiest way to reach South Uist is to fly from Glasgow airport to Benbecula. Adventurous people may wish to land at Barra airport, the only airport in the world where the official runway is a tidal beach. It’s quite an experience! You can then ferry from Barra to Eriskay, where you can reach Uist.

Flying from Benbecula to Glasgow

However, if flying is not your thing, if you’re bringing a vehicle, or if you just want to experience crossing the sea, then ferrying from the mainland may be the way to go.

Taking the Ferry

When taking the Caledonian MacBrayne ferry to Uist, whether you’re going by car or on foot, I advise booking in advance and planning an extra, unstructured day of your trip. This will enable you to take a ferry the following day in case your ferry is cancelled.

CalMac’s timetables show several routes that will take you to Uist: the Mallaig-Lochboisdale and Oban-Lochboisdale lines are direct.

The Uig-Lochmaddy line links the Isle of Skye to North Uist which may be convenient for some travellers.

You can also take the Oban-Castlebay ferry to the island of Barra, then drive or taxi to Ardmore and take the Ardmore-Eriskay ferry, which will take you to the island of Eriskay where you can reach Uist by road.

Ardmore-Eriskay Ferry

Caledonian MacBrayne docked at Oban

Cancellations and route changes are announced on the CalMac app. The app is useful. It informed me some weeks before my trip that the Mallaig-Lochboisdale ferry I originally planned to take was rerouted to depart from Oban instead, which frequently happens. I adjusted my travel plans with plenty time to make changes to my schedule and itinerary.

That said, keep in mind that on the day of departure, the app failed to notify me that the Oban-Lochboisdale ferry had been cancelled. I waited for it until the last minute. When I realized something was wrong, I had to act quickly: choose to wait a day and take the ferry in the morning or transfer my ticket to the Oban-Castlebay ferry to Barra which was about to leave in minutes.

I chose to leave for Castlebay, where I had about an hour and a half to reach Ardmore terminal to make the connecting ferry to Eriskay. Thankfully, CalMac had planned an extra ferry that evening to make sure passengers bound for Uist could make their connection to Eriskay after the cancellation. With Catriona’s help, I easily made the connection by taxi.

Castlebay, Barra

Eriskay Ferry

Lesson learned: the ferry can be unpredictable, so it is best to be prepared for delays and to plan for alternate routes.

The ferry to Uist can take several hours. There is a restaurant and lounge area on board. Though the waters close to land are calm, in open ocean the ride can be choppy. I saw many people lying down on the seats to ease their stomachs. I strongly advise bringing Gravol or another nausea relief medication to calm your stomach and fight any seasickness.

Oban-Castlebay Ferry Deck

How to Get Around Uist

Roads

South Uist is connected to Eriskay, Benbecula, and North Uist by causeways replacing the old ferries. You can drive from Eriskay to Bernerary Harbour at the tip of North Uist in about two hours.

The A865 is the arterial road for Uist and Benbecula and has two lanes, while the other roads branching from it are one-lane roads with passing places—the standard for the Highlands and Islands. Remember to pull over in the passing places to let oncoming traffic move past you. Kindly wave to the other driver to let them know all is well. Above all, these roads call for patience.

In North Uist, the arterial road branches. The A865 continues up the western coast and around the north of the island while the A867 heads to Lochmaddy on the eastern coast and crosses the end of the A865. The two roads form a ring around the island.

Going by Car

You can rent a car at Laing Motors, Lochboisdale or at Hebridean Car Hire at Benbecula Airport. Both of these are at convenient locations but may be expensive. Catriona recommends asking for a car hire at Creagory Motors, Liniclate, Benbecula.

Going by Bus

If you do not have a car, you can take the bus. Buses operate Monday to Saturday but not on Sunday.

It’s possible to travel the full length of the island by bus. Though the bus service is sparse with limited stops, it should allow one some time at sites that are along the bus line. Go to the Western Isles Council (Comhairle nan Eilean Siar) website to find bus timetables.

Going by Taxi

Taxi services are also available on the island. Booking in advance is highly recommended.

These come recommended by Catriona:

DA Travel, Kilpheder, South Uist: Mobile: 01878 700357
Lindsay’s Taxi, Lochboisdale, South Uist: Mobile: 07780 548779. Landline: 01878 700 206. Available in evening.
Ken’s Taxi, Lochboisdale, South Uist: Mobile: 07887 842401.
Aitken's Island Travel, North Locheynort, South Uist: Mobile: 01878 710333.

Passing Place in North Uist

Other taxi options:

WMV (Willie Mcvicar) Motor Hire, Liniclate, Benbecula: Mobile 01870 603197.
Buster’s Private Hire, Eochar, South Uist: Mobile 01870 610 374.
Tam’s Taxi, Lochboisdale and Balivanich, South Uist: Mobile 07717 862999.
NC Buchanan, Creagorry, Benbecula: Mobile 01870 602 455.

If you find yourself on Barra and on foot, you can call the following cabs to reach the Ardmore ferry terminal to Eriskay:

Dan’s Cabs: Mobile: 01871 810497 or 07807526134. Landline: 01871 810 497.
Barra Taxi: Mobile: 0797 407 1255. Landline: 01871 810 012.

Going by Bike

Some adventurous souls hire a bike to get around. Remember to slow down and stop frequently to let vehicles pass on single-lane roads. Also, dress appropriately, wear a helmet, and be prepared to face strong winds. There are bike and ebike rentals on the island.

Lasgair Bike Hire, Lochboisdale
E-Bike Hire Uist, Ceallan, Grimsay, North Uist
Hebridean Way Special: This company provides rentals for groups of four. Located near Benbecula Airport and all major ferry terminals.

VisitOuterHebrides.co.uk has great information about bike safety and preparedness. They also have pamphlet on bike routes in South Uist and the rest of the Outer Hebrides.

Travel Safely and Enjoy Your Stay

Whether you’re planning on reaching the island by ferry or plane, getting around by car or ebike, and sleeping in a hotel or glamping pod, your stay in South Uist is bound to be unforgettable. We hope that with this short guide, you’ll have a better idea of how to plan your trip.

For a list of things to do in Uist and the Outer Hebrides, we recommend visiting VisitOuterHebrides.co.uk.

Visitors are also encouraged to visit the South Uist/Uibhist a Deas Appreciation Society group on Facebook for things to do and events postings.

Macaulay Morrison Family